A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (2024)

Nonna Marcella, my grandma, oh she passed me so many recipes, either chatting lightly at the table, over a perfectly stewed rabbit trying to explain me why it was to tender and flavourful, or standing next to me in the kitchen, checking every movement I was making to verify it was made by the book, respectful of the traditions of many women of our family.

A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (1)

She passed me her recipes but also recipes that someone else passed her over the years, and every time she adds bits of information about the great woman behind a dish, a relative or a neighbour’s wife. A recipe is not just a recipe in front of my grandmother’s eyes, is a key to access to a past moment, unravelling stories of weddings, country works, family gatherings, short trips that back in that years looked like enormous travels.

A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (2)A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (3)

Every time she passes me a recipe with a story, the proper serving dish to be used, the special occasion that could be celebrated with that recipe, a funny anecdote, the way to stir the custard or to fill the pot, when to add the salt and why. Every recipe is a page of her personal book of life, something she is passing me and that won’t be forgotten. If I have to find one single reason to keep blogging, besides the great fun I have in sharing recipes with you, well it would be this enormous archive of family recipes I’m building and preserving for the other members of our family.

When I was younger I used to write her recipes, along with my mum’s recipes, in a big notebook that I still cherish, stained with the first splashes of my culinary experiments. Now everything is more evanescent here on the blog, but it takes just 5 minutes to turn everything into reality again, something real with a shape, a smell, a taste – a good one, believe me, when it involves grandma’s recipes.

A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (4)

So well, I am particularly proud to share this recipe today. It is again Italian Table Talk, and today we chose a special theme, we will talk aboutfamily recipes, something out of space and time, season and month, a recipe that someone in our family passed us, something to preserve, cherish and keep alive. Emiko is sharing therabbit ragu made by Marco’s grandma, Valeria a hearty minestra e fa*gioli and Jasmine her grandmother’s roast. I asked grandma to teach me finally to make choux pastries, bigné, something she’s famous for among the family, her signature dish. No surprise is a dessert, grandma has a sweet tooth!

There is no birthday, Christmas, special Sunday or occasion that needs to be celebrated without bigné. To respect the tradition, they must be filled up to the bream with crema, our thick Italian custard. When you bite into them you must pay attention to the lemon custard that will spill everywhere, you are supposed to lick it from your fingers, perfectly admitted into our family. She used to bake trays and trays of them, because everyone was ready for a second and third serving, and there’s nothing better than a bigné bursting of custard the day after for breakfast.

A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (5)A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (6)

I also managed to take some shots of her while she was researching for the recipe into her hand written notebook and this made me extremely proud, as she always runs away in front of the camera. She was to eager to share the recipe and bake them again to notice the camera.

Her choux pastries are made with olive oil, instead of butter. Since I’ve grown up with their flavour, I find it just perfect, even more than butter, because it adds that subtle extra fruity aroma that makes you ask for a second serving, and a third one… Paired with a thick lemon custard they are just the perfect afternoon treat.

My grandma's choux pastries

Giulia

4.34 from 12 votes

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Prep Time 15 minutes mins

Cook Time 25 minutes mins

Total Time 40 minutes mins

Course Dessert

Cuisine Italian

Servings 8

Ingredients

Ingredients to make the choux pastries

  • 50 g of extra virgin olive oil
  • 100 g of water
  • 100 g of flour
  • 3 eggs

Ingredients to make the custard

  • 500 ml of whole fresh milk
  • Zest of one organic unwaxed lemon
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 tablespoons of caster sugar
  • 2 heaping tablespoons of corn starch

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Instructions

  • Make the custard in advance, so it will have time to cool down. Heat the milk in a saucepan with the zest of an organic lemon and remove from the heat as soon as it starts simmering.

  • In another saucepan whisk the eggs with the sugar and the corn starch: do it carefully to avoid any lumps. Pour slowly the hot milk in a thin stream over the eggs, stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent scrambled eggs.

  • Bring the saucepan back on a low flame and stir constantly with a whisk until it thickens, you will need about 5 minutes. Transfer into a bowl, cover tightly with cling film and let it cool down completely.

  • Now make the choux pastries. Pour water and olive oil in a small non stick saucepan, bring it to the boil. As soon as it starts bubbling add the flour in one go. Toast the flour for about five minutes, beating constantly and vigorously with a wooden spoon, until you have a golden ball of dough that will leave the sides of the saucepan clean.

  • Remove from the stove, transfer into a bowl and let it cool slightly. After a few minutes add the beaten eggs and whip with an electric beater for about five minutes, until smooth, glossy and thick.

  • Heat the oven to 210°C and line a tray with parchment paper. Shape mandarin sized balls with two tablespoons and lay them onto the lined baking tray. You should obtain about 8 choux pastries.

  • Bake for about 25 minutes, until golden brown and puffed up. Remove from the oven and let them cool down.

  • Spoon the cooled and thick custard into a pastry bag and fill the choux pastries. Dust with icing sugar and serve immediately.

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A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (7)

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Galaktoboureko – a Greek phyllo custard pie and my love for Greece!Véronique’s crêpes with salted butter and raspberriesThe Tuscan pine nut cake – a recipe with a storyMy grandma’s crème caramel to celebrate one year of Italian table Talk

A family recipe, my grandma's choux pastries - Juls' Kitchen (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to choux pastry? ›

Use unsalted butter (or don't add salt, if using salted butter) and cut it into tablespoon-sized pieces before adding it (this helps it melt faster). Water. This will bind everything together and create steam in the dough while it bakes, forcing the choux to rise and become hollow. Salt.

What are 2 types of choux pastry? ›

Choux pastry dishes
NameTypeOrigin
Cream puffSweetU.S.
CroquemboucheSweetFrance
ÉclairSweetFrance
GougèreSavoryFrance
17 more rows

What's the difference between puff pastry and choux pastry? ›

Unlike short crust, flaky or puff pastry, choux pastry dough is made from water and flour which is further enriched and lightened through the incorporation of eggs while beating the paste. Baking results in a crisp shell with a thin, moist lining of cooked paste and a hollow centre.

What is the most important ingredient in choux pastry? ›

The essential ingredients are butter, water, flour and eggs. Instead of a raising agent, choux pastry employs its high moisture content to create steam, as the water in the dough evaporates when baked, puffing the pastry.

How do you keep choux pastry crispy? ›

Shelf-life & Refeshing your Choux

You can keep the Choux in an airtight container for up to 3 days. They will feel soggy when you take them out so it's important to put them in a 175°C oven for about 5 minutes. That will dry and crisp them back up. ..But I suggest to use,the same day you make them, so much better.

Why do you cook choux pastry twice? ›

Choux comes from the French word 'cabbage,' because once baked, the pastry puffs up into a crinkled little ball, much like a cabbage. Made simply with flour, water, butter and eggs, choux pastry is cooked twice – first on the hob, then in the oven where it magically puffs up using only steam as a leavener.

What is unusual about making choux pastry? ›

Just as a cornstarch slurry thickens a gravy once it's brought to a simmer, the gelatinized starch in the choux paste thickens the batter, helping give it that strange hybrid dough-batter consistency that's so dang useful yet uncommon in the kitchen.

Why is my choux pastry dense and heavy? ›

If too much egg is added or if it is added too quickly, the Choux's ability to rise when baked will be affected. Similarly, if not enough egg is incorporated, it won't puff, causing it to be dense inside.

What are choux pastry balls called? ›

Profiteroles (also sometimes called cream puffs) are golden little balls of pastry that when filled with a pastry cream form the tower that becomes a croquembouche. Profiteroles are made from a unique pastry known as “choux”, where butter, water and flour are cooked on the stove top until a large ball forms.

How to tell if choux is done? ›

To make sure your dough is just right, scoop up the mixture on a spoon or spatula and then raise the spoon in the air, letting the pastry fall back into the pan. You will know it's ready when the pastry slides off slowly, creating a 'V' like shape.

What desserts can be made from choux pastry? ›

Choux Pastry can be used in anything from cream puffs, profiteroles, and eclairs to churros, croquembouche, French cruller donuts, choux beignets, and gougères! It only takes about 10 minutes to prepare and the options for filling and shaping are endless.

Why does my choux pastry taste eggy? ›

Pâte à Choux is too Eggy

Also, if the puffs do not bake long enough, then they may taste slightly eggy because the insides haven't cooked long enough. We want the pastries to be crisp on the outside and dry on the inside. Solutions: Don't use too many eggs and bake long enough to dry them out.

Is choux the same as profiteroles? ›

Cream puffs and profiteroles are often used interchangeably to mean the same thing. They are both choux pastry-based puffs filled with a cream filling. The main difference between the two is that profiteroles are filled with ice cream instead of pastry cream.

Are croissants choux pastry? ›

No. They are very different. Puff pastry is made cold, flour, salt and water are combined to make the pastry, it's then rolled out and folded, sandwiched multiple times with butter. It's the layers of butter that make it “puff".

What makes choux pastry rise so well? ›

To understand why choux is twice-cooked, it's important to know that choux needs lots of moisture: it's the steam generated by its high water content that causes it to swell and puff so much (there's no baking soda, baking powder, yeast, beaten egg whites, or any other leavening agent to help give it extra lift).

Why didn't my choux pastry puff up? ›

If too much egg is added or if it is added too quickly, the Choux's ability to rise when baked will be affected. Similarly, if not enough egg is incorporated, it won't puff, causing it to be dense inside.

Is choux pastry better with milk or water? ›

Choux pastry has two important stages. First you cook it and then you bake it. For the liquid, you can use water or milk or a combination of both. We choose the combination of both because this way you get a nice color and tender bite, but the extra water also allows for baking at a slightly higher temperature.

How to stop choux pastry collapsing? ›

If the puffs collapse it means there was too much moisture in them. So either you did not dry the dough enough, or they were not cooked enough. To avoid this I recommend drying the dough really well (see below) and cracking the door of the oven open when the choux are baked.

References

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